国标服装术语(3)

[前腰围线 waist line] 中裆围线 knee line 脚口围线 bottom line [侧缝弧线 side seam]

直袋位线 side vertical pocket position 前裆弧线 front crotch curve 下裆线 inseam line

裥位线 pleat position line 落裆线 back crotch line 后翘线 upline of waist 后腰缝线 back waist seam

后裆宽线 curve width line of back crotch seam 后裆弧线 back crotch vurve [后省线 waist dart line]

后袋线 hip pocket position line 腰头上口线 waistband roll line 腰头下口线 waistband underline 门襟止口线 fly edge line

门襟外口线 fly facing outside edge 里襟里口线 fly shield inside edge 里襟外口线 fly shield outside edge [裙子基本线 basic line] [裙长线 length line]

[裙侧缝线 side seam line] [裙腰缝线 waist seam line] [裙裥位线 pleat position line] 服装工艺操作

检查原辅料 material inspection 验色差 colour shade inspection 查疵点 inspection for defect 查污渍 inspection for spot

[分幅宽 fabrics width grouping] [查衬布色泽 checking interlining] 查纬斜 inspection for skewness [复米 roll length audit]

理化试验 physical and chemical test 裁剪 cutting

[烫原辅料 wrinkle removal] 自然回缩 fabric relaxing 排料 layout

[计算机裁剪 computer aided cutting]

[服装CAM clothing computer-aided manufacturing]

[服装CAD computer-aided garment design] 铺料 spreading

划样 marking：用样板或漏划板按不同规格在原料上划出衣片裁剪线条。

版样 pattern：记录服装结构图及相关技术规定（缝份、布纹方向、对位点、规格等）的纸板的统称。

纸样 paper pattern：软质纸的版样。

板样 pasteboard pattern：硬质纸的版样，也称为样板。 布样 cloth pattern：布质的版样、立裁中产生的版样。 复查划样 marker audit：复核划样结果。 裁剪 cutting：按划样裁成衣片。

钻眼 drilling：用电钻在裁片上做出缝制标记。又称为“扎眼”。 打刀口 notching：按划样标记打上剪口。又称为“打剪口”。 分片 identifying and bundling：裁片分开整理。 打粉印 chalking：用粉片在裁片上做出缝制标记。 编号 numbering：裁好的衣片按顺序编上号码。 查裁片刀口 checking notches：检查裁片刀口质量。 配零料 assigning sundries：配零部件料。

钉标签 attaching label：将有顺序号的标签钉在衣片上。 验片 cut piece inspection：检查裁片质量。 织补 darning：修补裁片【织疵】疵点。

换片 changing defective pieces：调换不符合质量的裁片。

冲上下领衬 punching collar interlining：用模具冲压领子的上领和下领的衬布。 冲袖头衬 punching cuff interlining 缝制 sewing

男毛呢服装 men's woollen garment

修片 trimming pieces：修剪毛胚裁片。

打线丁 making tailor's tack：用异色棉纱线在裁片上做出缝制标记。 剪省缝 slashing dart：毛呢服装省缝剪开。

环缝 overcasting stitches：毛呢服装间开的省缝用环形针法绕缝。 缉省缝 sewing darts

烫省缝 pressing dart open

归拔前片 blocking front piece：将平面前衣片推烫成立体衣片。 缉衬省 stitching dart of interlining 缉衬 stitching interlining 烫衬 pressing interlining

敷胸衬 attaching interlining：前衣片敷上胸衬。

粘衬 pressing interfacing：用粘合机将某些部位衣片和粘合衬进行热压粘合。 纳驳头 pad-stitching lapel：手工或机扎驳头。又称为扎驳头。 敷止口牵条 taping front edge 敷驳口牵条 taping lapel roll line 拼袋盖里 matching flap facing

做袋盖 making flap：袋盖面和里机缉缝合。

翻袋盖 turning over flap

做插笔袋 making an opening for pen on the flap

滚袋口 binding pocket mouth：毛边袋口用滚条包光。 缉袋嵌线 stitching bound pocket 开袋口 cutting pocket mouth

封袋口 stitching ends of pocket mouth 缉转袋布 stitching pocket bag 拼接挂面 stitching facing 拼接耳朵皮 stitching flange 敷挂面 attaching facing 合止口 joining front edge 修剔止口 trimming front edge 扳止口 whipstitching front edge （扌寨）止口 basting front edge 叠挂面 basting front facing

合背缝 joining center back seam 归拔后背 blocking back piece 敷袖窿牵条 taping armhole 敷背叉牵条 taping back vent 封背叉 bartacking back vent 合摆缝 joining side seam

分烫摆缝 pressing open side seam 扣烫底边 folding and pressing hem 叠底边 basting hem

叠摆缝 basting side seam

倒钩袖窿 back-stitching armhole 合肩缝 joining shoulder seam

分烫肩缝 pressing open shoulder seam 叠肩缝 slip-stitching shoulder seam 做垫肩 making shoulder pad 装垫肩 setting shoulder pad

倒钩领窝 back-stitching neckline 拼领衬 joining collar interlining 拼领里 applying interlining to collar 缉领里 top-stitching under collar 归拔领里 blocking under collar 归拔领面 blocking top collar

敷领面 attaching under collar to top collar 合领子 joining under collar and top collar 翻领子 turning over collar

做领舌 making collar band ends 包底领 stitching collar band

绱领子 sewing collar on and down 分烫绱领缝 pressing open collar seam

分烫领串口 pressing open gorge line seam 叠领串口 slip-stitching gorge seam

包领里 turning over top collar seam allowances and catch-stitching 上下领缝合 attaching band to collar 压烫领脚 pressing collar 归拔偏袖 blocking sleeve 合袖缝 joining sleeve seam

分烫袖缝 pressing open sleeve seam （纟乔）袖叉 slip-stitching sleeve slit

叠袖里缝 matching and stitching sleeve lining seam allowance 翻袖子 turning over sleeve 收袖山 easing sleeve cap 绱袖 setting in sleeve

（纟乔）袖窿 slip-stitching sleeve lining to garment lining 压烫袖窿 pressing armhole 滚袖窿 binding armhole

（纟乔）领钩 attaching hook to collar band （纟乔）领下口 slip-stitching collar to garment 叠暗门襟 slip-stitching facing （纟乔）底边 blind stitching hem 女毛呢服装 women's woolen garment

合刀背缝 stitching princess line 烫刀背缝 pressing princess line 定眼位 marking button position 滚扣眼 bounding buttonhole 开扣眼 cutting buttonhole 挂面滚边 bias binding facing 合领面 joining top collar 做袋爿 making welt pocket 做袋 making pocket

绱袋 attaching pocket to garment 翻小袢 turning over tab 绱袖袢 attaching sleeve tab

合腰带 stitching waistband and lining 翻腰带 turning over waistband

倒烫里子缝 pressing lining seam rolling to underside 合大身面里 stitching garment and lining together 翻里子 turning over lining

敷里子 attaching lining to garment （纟乔）扣眼 slip-stitching buttonhole 衬衫 shirts and blouses

热缩领面 pressing top collar for preshrinking 粘领衬 fusing interlining 压领角 pressing collar point 夹下领 attaching collar to band

扣烫过肩 folding and pressing back yoke 绱过肩 setting back yoke 绱明门襟 attaching facing 镶嵌线 piping and binding 缉明线 top stitching

钩袖头 joining sleeve bottom 翻袖头 turning over cuff

绱袖叉条 stitching placket tape to sleeve 封袖叉 top stitching close to placket 绱袖头 attaching cuff to sleeve 绱橡筋 attaching elastic

定扣位 marking button position 锁扣眼 sewing buttonhole 钉扣 sewing button 中式服装 Chinese costume

刮浆 srnearing pasting

抬裉缝剪口 notching underarm seam allowance 划绗缝线 marking quilting line 绗棉 quilting

（纟乔）钮袢 slip-stitching button loops 盘花钮 making Chinese frog 钉钮袢 sewing button loop

钉领钩袢 attaching hook and eye

镶边 making bias binding as a decorative trim 西裤 trousers

拔裆 blocking crotch

敷袋口牵条 attaching pocket stay

扣烫膝盖绸 folding and pressing knee kicker （纟乔）膝盖绸 slip-stitching knee kicker 合侧缝 joining side seam

合腰头 stitching waistband and lining 翻腰头 turning over waistband 合串带袢 making belt loops 翻串带袢 turning over belt loops 绱拉链 attaching zipper

翻门袢 turning over fly facing 翻里襟 turning over fly shield

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